Method of making shoes.



- K. ENGEL. METHOD OFMAKING SHOE&

A'Prmomxox FILED nov. 20, 1905.

Patented Aug. 24, 1909.

'2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

wma ww j- K. ENGEL.

METHOD OF MAKING snoss. -A'PPLIOATIOK FILED BOY. 20, 1905.

Patented Aug. 24, 1909.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

UNTTED sTA'rEs PATENT OFFICE.

KEZBL EHQEL,

OF LYNN, EASSACHUSETTSyASSIGNOB. TD SE91: MACHINERY COMPANY,

03* PATEESON, NEW JERSEY, i GOBTOBATIQN OF ,NEW JERSEY.

M'THOID OF SHOES.

Specification 01' Lettersjatent.

aa iicaeibn filed november 20, 1,906: .Scnial No. 288,182.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, KARI. E'NGEIj Of Lynn, in the county of Essex andStatebtMassachusetts, have invented certaii-i new and usefulImprovements in Mietliods oi Making r -.hoes, of which the following is.a, specificath 1.

This invention relates particularly-to that class of shoes known asstitch-down -in which. the upper is turned outwardly and .stitched tothe upper faceof the sole. 'The that in removing a worn out sole tosubstitute a new one, the stitches uniting the upper to the so'le'mustbe severed, which leaves the upper entirely unconfined so that a newsole cannot be applied by an ordinary shoemaker or mender of shoes, andthe shoe must be sent back to the factory for re-lasting andmaking-over. This renders the cost of mending a shoe almost-as great asthat of making an entirely new shoe. I

It is the object of the present invention to provide an improved method.of making a shoe of the general class above refer-red to,

said method enabling a shoe to be produced which is free from theobjections above named, so that not only will the shoe retain its shapeand hold together after the stitches attaching the outer sole -havebecome worn through, but will be of such construction that theouter-sole may be removed and a new one applied by an extremely simpleoperation, which does not require lasting of the shoe.

The novel steps forming' the subject-matter of this invention aredescribed in the fol-lowing specification and claims.

'Of the accompanying drawings,Figu-re 1 represents a perspective View ofa shoe upper made in accor ance with the present invention beforeattachment thereto M the inner soleand outer'sole. Fig..j2 represents aperspective inverted view of the-shoe after has be attachment of theinner sole thereto. Fig. .3 represents a cross-section of a colnplietedshoe, constructed according to the present invention. Fig. t representsa longitudinal section of the same. Fig. 5 represents a View similar toFig. 2, of a partof the shoe with the outer sole applied. 4

The same refei ence characters same parts in all the figures.

Referring to the drawings, 1 indicates the upper leather of a shoe madein accordance with my invention, and 2 indicates the lining. The partsof the upper and the manner indicate the fin which they are stitchedtogether are the same as in shoes previously made.

The essence of the present invention consists in mold-mg either thetoeportion alone or both the toe and counter portions of the upper or theentire upper, within the shank into the form which they will have whenfinally lasted but before the lasting operation or attachment of theinner sole is made. Fig. 1 shows the shoeupper after it has been molded1ready for the application of the inner so e.

In making the shoe, the parts are all assembled and a fiat blank for theformation of abox toe or toestiffener 3 is pasted to the under side ofthe toe cap 4. The same is then set into a press, being clamped aboutits edges and acted upon by a form having substantially the shape of thetoe part of the last upon which the shoe is subsequently to be lasted.Pressure is then exerted so as to movethe form out of the plane of theclamped edge, whereby the toe part of the upper is bulged out into theshape it is to have when finally lasted, and at the same time anoutwardly-turned edge or flange 5 is formed upon the toe cap and boxbetween which and the body of the toe is a constricted crease. Theleather is tempered before the molding takes place and after it becomes.dry, retains its shape exactly. The means zfiorshaping the toe part ofthe upper and the method of shaping said toe part are not herein'specifically described and claimed, being made the subject-matter of themespec'tive o0-pending applications of Karl Enge'l, Serial No. 387,168,,filed August 5, 1-997, and Serial l o. 422,293, filed March 20, 1 908.In a similar manner a blank for the formation of a countersti fiener 6=is;avpp'lied to the counter 7 0f the shoe and placed in a suitablyshaped -m'oldj, and while held in Patented Aug. 24., 1909;.

-the molds, while the intermediate parts of the upper being limp, may beturned out by -or insole 9 of which the-forward part has the upper andis preferably. ofkless width than the fore-part, although this is notaccurately as to permit of correct lasting.

and grooving the outer sole now take place,

the mold, the projecting edges of the counter and stifi'ener are pressedover outwardly in all directions, forming the turned-out edge or flan 'e8. These portions being stifl', retain substantially the shape giventhem by hand when required. But these may be stiff and molded. The meansfor shaping the counterof the shoe and the method of shaping saidcounter are not herein specifically described and claimed, being madethe subject-matter of the respective co-pending applications of KarlEngel, SerialNo.387,024, filed August 5, 1907, and Serial No. 387,023,filed August 5, 1907. After the molding operations have'been performed,a tap sole the shape and dimensions of the fore part ofthe upper whenthe edges thereof are. turned outward, is applied to the upper andositioned properly with respect to the stifi orward flange 5, the lining2 being also turned outwardly and laid upon the tap sole or insole. Thenthe limp edges. of the sides of the upper arelturned outward and thewhole upper from one side of the shoe at the shank to the correspondingpart upon the other side of the shoe is stitched close to the bend ofthe turned-out edge, to theinsole, the line of stitches being shown at10. The heel part of the insole is left-free from essential.

The steps above .described are all per formed before the shoe has beenplaced upon I a last, the attachment of the insole to the upper beingrendered possible from the fact that the toe part is molded to its finalshape. If this were not done, it would be impossible, to unite the up erand insole so Thereafter a last is placed in the ,shoe and the outersole 11 is cemented and laid in place. The usual steps of rough-roundingand then the sole is stitched to the out turned edges of the upper andthe edges of the insole entirely around the shoe by a line of stitches12, a welt strip 13 being laid at the same time upon the oppositeside ofthe edge of the upper entirely'surfoundin the shoe, and the stitchesbeing pass through the welt as well as through the other parts. j

In a prior patent -No. 788,354, granted April 25, 1905, I have shown anddescribed a shoein which the insole or sock lining issecured to theupper lining so as to prevent the upper pulling away from the sole whenthe stitches are worn through. With this form of shoe, it is necessaryto shape the upper leather upon a last after securlng the insole to thelining before the'outer sole can -be attached, and after the outer solehas been removed, it is impossible to reattach it or apply a new solewithout relasting the shoe. With the present invention I have improvedthe shoe referred to by This attachment of the insole to the upper V isrendered possible only by the previous formation of the molded toe andoutward flange, and therefore the step of thus molding the toe prior tothe lasting operation and a shoe upper having a toe so molded,constitute the gist of the present invention. Bythis step also thelasting operation is much simplified, for the upper has already beenbrought into its final lasted shape and it is only necessary thereforeto insert a last to. provide a support against which the outer sole isforced when being pressed in place. Accordingly the capacity of thelasters is \more than doubled and that step which has-previously beenthe most expensive one of shoe making, is by my invention reduced to oneof theleast expensive.

,The material of .which the insole or sock -lining 9 is made is of muchlighter weight and much .less stiif than that ordinarily used, beingpreferably of the same quality of leather as that from which the upperis made, this being sufficiently strong to hold down the edges of theupper., Furthermore, as the upper is directly attached to the insole, itis not necessary to use a special grade of lining as isrequired in theshoe described in my patent above referred to,. but the ordinarylining-materials may be employed. Thus a shoe upper which is very lightand flexible may be made and an extra heavy outer sole may be a pliedwithout increasing the weight or-sti ness of the shoe to a greaterdegree than that previously necessary even with the lightest shoes.Thereby the greater part of the weight may be put where it ismostneeded, that is,- in the outer sole, whichreceives the greatest wear;The

welt gives the shoe the appearance of a Goodyearshoe and also provides abacking for the stitches 12 assing through the upper. The terms ast and'lastginpf as used throughout the specification and claims may includeconstructions and operations, respectively, which differ in manyrespects from the :constructions and operations to which these termsordinarily refer. As pointed out above, on.e of the main functions ofthe last in the employment of this method is to provide a supportagainst which the outer sole may be forced in the sole laying operation.Although the last may also aid in per side of the out-turned Correctionsin LetterSPatent No. 931,851.

shaping the upper, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that sofar as thisiunction is concerned it may be dispensed with in thesuccessful employment'of the resent method of makin shoes. As hereinefore pointed out, a suitable shape is given to the shoe before the lastis inserted. This initial shaping of the shoe is efi'ected by themolding operation, an insole'being attached which tends to 1 id theupper in its molded shape, and with a subsequent proper manipulation ofthe uoper is the only shaping essential in this method of making shoes.

I claim .1. The method of making a shoeswhich consists in molding thetoe part of the upper to the desired shape of the toe of the finishedshoe and simultaneously forming an outwardly projecting flan e-thereon,bulging out the toe over said ange stitching the edge of an. insole orsock lining to said flange and outturned sides of the upper and securingan outersole to the edges of the upper and insole.

2. The .method'of making a shoe which consists molding the toe part ofthe upper to the shape of the toe of the last and simultaneously formingan outwardly-pro jecting flange thereon prior to lasting, stitchmg theedge of an insole or sock lining to said flange and out-turned sides ofthe upper, inserting a last and securin an outer sole to the edges ofthe upper an insole.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in formingan outwardly-turned flan e on the toe part of an upper, molding suclasted shoe, turning out the sides of the upper and stitching theretoand to said flange the fore part of an innersole or sock lining,inserting a last, applying a welt to the upupper, and securing a solethereto.

0rd of the case the Patent Office.

' [SEAL] part to the shape of a- Signed and sealed this 5th dayofOctoher, A. 1)., 1,909.

4. That improvement in the art of making.

shoes which consists in forming an outwardly-turned flange on the toepart of an upper, molding such part to the shape of a' lasted shoe,molding the counter and stiff ener therefor of the upper to the shape ofa.

and attaching thereto and to said toe flange the fore part of aninnei'sole or sock lining, inserting alast in the shoe, and securing anouter sole to the toe and counter flanges and to the intermediateout-turned sides of the upper edge of the innersole.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in moldingthe toe and counter and the stitfeners therefor of a. .shoe upper to thefinal shape of a lasted shoe and forming thereon outwardly-turnedflanges, stitching the fore-part of an insole to the toe flange and thesides of the upper, inserting,

a last, and securing an outer sole-to said flangesv and the out-turnedsides of the upper.

6. That improvement in the art of making,

shoes'w'hichconsists in molding the toe and counter and the stifi'enerstherefor of a shoe upper to the final shape of a lasted shoe and formingthereon outwardly-turned flanges,

stitching the fore part of an insole to'the toe flange and the sides ofthe upper, inserting a last, applying an outersole, laying awelt stripupon the turned-out edges of the upper, and stitching through the outerand inner soles, the turned-out upper edges, and the welt In testimonywhereof I have afiixed my signature, in presence of two witnesses,

. KARL ENGEL. Witnesses:

' G120. T. YOUNG,

STEPHEN B. LARRABEE.

i It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 931,851, grantedAugust 2- 1909, upon the application of Karl Engel, of Lynn,Massachusetts, for an improvement in i Methods of Making Shoes, errorsappear in the printed specification requiring correction, as follows:Page 2, line 17'and'lines' 2425, the Words tap sole should 7 read soc/ilining, page 3, after line 13, the following paragraph should beinserted:

I The novel shoe herein disclosed is not herein. claim ed but is muchthe sub 'ofa copemling: application Serial 2V0. 508,435,filed July1.9,1909.

Same page, line 53, the word attaching should read stitching, and line58, after the word upper the word and should be inserted; and thatthesaid Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein thatthe same may conform to the rec;

C. C. BILLINGS,

Acting Chmmz'ssioncr of'Patent-s.

. per side of the out-turned Corrections in LetterSPatent No. 931,851.

shaping the upper, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that sofar as thisiunction is concerned it may be dispensed with in thesuccessful employment'of the resent method of makin shoes. As hereinefore pointed out, a suitable shape is given to the shoe before the lastis inserted. This initial shaping of the shoe is efi'ected by themolding operation, an insole'being attached which tends to 1 id theupper in its molded shape, and with a subsequent proper manipulation ofthe uoper is the only shaping essential in this method of making shoes.

I claim .1. The method of making a shoeswhich consists in molding thetoe part of the upper to the desired shape of the toe of the finishedshoe and simultaneously forming an outwardly projecting flan e-thereon,bulging out the toe over said ange stitching the edge of an. insole orsock lining to said flange and outturned sides of the upper and securingan outersole to the edges of the upper and insole.

2. The .method'of making a shoe which consists molding the toe part ofthe upper to the shape of the toe of the last and simultaneously formingan outwardly-pro jecting flange thereon prior to lasting, stitchmg theedge of an insole or sock lining to said flange and out-turned sides ofthe upper, inserting a last and securin an outer sole to the edges ofthe upper an insole.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in formingan outwardly-turned flan e on the toe part of an upper, molding suclasted shoe, turning out the sides of the upper and stitching theretoand to said flange the fore part of an innersole or sock lining,inserting a last, applying a welt to the upupper, and securing a solethereto.

0rd of the case the Patent Office.

' [SEAL] part to the shape of a- Signed and sealed this 5th dayofOctoher, A. 1)., 1,909.

4. That improvement in the art of making.

shoes which consists in forming an outwardly-turned flange on the toepart of an upper, molding such part to the shape of a' lasted shoe,molding the counter and stiff ener therefor of the upper to the shape ofa.

and attaching thereto and to said toe flange the fore part of aninnei'sole or sock lining, inserting alast in the shoe, and securing anouter sole to the toe and counter flanges and to the intermediateout-turned sides of the upper edge of the innersole.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in moldingthe toe and counter and the stitfeners therefor of a. .shoe upper to thefinal shape of a lasted shoe and forming thereon outwardly-turnedflanges, stitching the fore-part of an insole to the toe flange and thesides of the upper, inserting,

a last, and securing an outer sole-to said flangesv and the out-turnedsides of the upper.

6. That improvement in the art of making,

shoes'w'hichconsists in molding the toe and counter and the stifi'enerstherefor of a shoe upper to the final shape of a lasted shoe and formingthereon outwardly-turned flanges,

stitching the fore part of an insole to'the toe flange and the sides ofthe upper, inserting a last, applying an outersole, laying awelt stripupon the turned-out edges of the upper, and stitching through the outerand inner soles, the turned-out upper edges, and the welt In testimonywhereof I have afiixed my signature, in presence of two witnesses,

. KARL ENGEL. Witnesses:

' G120. T. YOUNG,

STEPHEN B. LARRABEE.

i It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 931,851, grantedAugust 2- 1909, upon the application of Karl Engel, of Lynn,Massachusetts, for an improvement in i Methods of Making Shoes, errorsappear in the printed specification requiring correction, as follows:Page 2, line 17'and'lines' 2425, the Words tap sole should 7 read soc/ilining, page 3, after line 13, the following paragraph should beinserted:

I The novel shoe herein disclosed is not herein. claim ed but is muchthe sub 'ofa copemling: application Serial 2V0. 508,435,filed July1.9,1909.

Same page, line 53, the word attaching should read stitching, and line58, after the word upper the word and should be inserted; and thatthesaid Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein thatthe same may conform to the rec;

C. C. BILLINGS,

Acting Chmmz'ssioncr of'Patent-s.

Corrections in Letters Patent No. 931,851.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 931,851, grantedAugust 24-, 1909, upon the applivation of Karl Engel, of Lynn,Massachusetts, for an improvement in Methods of Making Shoes, errorsappear in the printed specification requiring correction, as follows;Page 2, line 17 and lines 2-L-25, the WOl'tls tarp sole should readsoc/l" lining: page 3, after line 13 the following paragraph should heinserted:

77w novel Show lmv'z'n diam/m d is no! Lew/w (/(I/mrfd imf ix mrule i/u'su/gjechmatfer ofa copendz'wg: app/[0118011 Sm'e'nl N0. 08, U5. filedJuly I9 '19t/9.

Same page, line 53, the word amt-oiling" should read elite/ting, andline 58, after the word upper the word and should be inserted; and thatthe said Letters Patent should be read with these eorrectionn thereinthat the mine mar conform to the rec 0rd of the ease in the Patent()fiit-(n Signed and sealed this 5th day of ()vtohvi: A. l 1909.

(T. (I. BlLLlNUt-,

Acting fbunnies/71ml f Patents.

[SEAL]

